Thursday, June 25, 2015

Photo Tutorial = Doily No. 13

If you prefer to use the chart, you can find it here.

If you would like to purchase any of the doilies I make, you can click the ETSY link on the right of this blog post.

**Disclaimer**
Please do not copy or distribute the written pattern or photos posted below.  Instead, feel free to link back to this page.


Pattern: No. 13
Book: Haekling No. 23
Hook: 1.50mm
Thread: size 10, about 125 yards
Finished Size: 8-inches

STITCHES
CH = chain
SLST = slip stitch
SC = single crochet
DC = double crochet
CSDC = chainless starting double crochet
Picot = ch3, slst through first ch

NOTES
  • When it says “in next stitch,” it will never be referring to a chain stitch; it means to stitch into the next SC or DC or TC, etc.
  • Familiarize yourself with all the stitches required before beginning pattern. If there is a stitch unfamiliar to you, search youtube for a good explanatory video.
  • When beginning rounds that require a DC, I always begin with a chainless starting double crochet. You may choose to start with a CH2 or CH3, but just know that a CSDC looks more seamless.
  • An easy way to weave in your starting thread is to crochet over it as you work round 1.
  • To weave in your final thread, try using a smaller hook.

PATTERN

CH 16, join with first CH to form a circle.  (I would recommend a CH 14 instead.)


ROUND 1 = CH1, 24 SC in circle. Join to beginning SC.


ROUND 2 = CSDC, (CH1, DC in next stitch) around, CH1. Join to the top of beginning DC. [24 DC]


ROUND 3 = CSDC, DC in same stitch, (CH1, 2DC in next DC) around, CH1. Join to the top of beginning DC.


ROUND 4 = SLST into next stitch and into CH1 space. (CSDC, 2DC) in same space, (3DC in next space) around. Join to the top of beginning DC.


ROUND 5 = SLST into next two stitches and into space before next set of 3DC. (SC in space, CH3) around. Join to beginning SC.


ROUND 6 = SLST into CH3 space, 5 SC in space. (5 SC in next space) around. Join to beginning SC.


ROUND 7 = SLST into next two stitches, CH3, skip four stitches, DC in next stitch, CH5, [(DC in the same stitch, but before you yarn over and pull through the last loops on hook, skip four stitches and begin another DC in the next stitch. Before you yarn over and finish that DC, yarn over and pull through all loops on hook. This is a DC-decrease stitch.) CH5] around. However, for your last CH5, instead do CH2 and then DC into the 3rd CH of your beginning CH3. This places your hook at the right spot to begin the next round.


ROUND 8 = CH1, SC around last DC made. [5DC in top of the DC-decrease stitch of last round, (SC in next space, CH5) three times, SC in next space] around.  However, for your last SC, you will SLST instead into the first SC of the round.


ROUND 9 = SLST into the next three stitches, CH1, SC in same stitch. [5DC in next SC, (SC in next space, CH5) twice, SC in next space, 5DC in next SC, SC in third DC of 5DC shell] around. Instead of your last SC, you will SLST into the first SC of this round.


ROUND 10 = SLST into the next three stitches, CH1, SC in sasme stitch. [5DC in next SC, SC in next space, CH5, SC in next space, 5DC in next SC, SC in third DC of 5DC shell, CH7, SC in third DC of next 5DC shell] around. Instead of your last SC, you will SLST into the first SC of this round.


ROUND 11 = SLST into the next three stitches, CH1, SC in same stitch. [5DC in next SC, SC in next space, 5DC in next SC, SC in third DC of 5DC shell, CH5, 11SC in CH7 space, CH5, SC in third DC of next 5DC shell] around. Instead of your last SC, you will SLST into the first SC of this round.


ROUND  12 = SLST into the next three stitches, CH1, SC in same stitch. [5DC in next SC, SC in third DC of next 5DC shell, CH5, SC in next CH5 space, (TC, CH9, TC) in sixth SC of 11SC, SC in next CH5 space, CH5, SC in third DC of next 5DC shell] around. Instead of your last SC, you will SLST into the first SC of this round.


ROUND 13 = SLST into the next three stitches, CH1, SC in same stitch. [CH5, SC in next CH5 space, CH1, DC in TC stitch, (CH1, DC) 9 times in CH9 space, CH1, DC in TC stitch, CH1, SC in CH5 space, CH5, SC in third DC of next 5DC shell] around. Instead of your last SC, you will SLST into the first SC of this round.


ROUND 14 = SLST into the CH5 space and into the first three chains, CH1, SC in same spot. {CH1, [(2DC, CH1) in next DC] eleven times, SC in next CH5 space, CH5, SC in next CH5 space} around. Instead of your last CH5, you will do a CH2, and then DC into the first SC of this round.


ROUND 15 = CH1, SC around last DC made. [(3DC in next CH1 space) twelve times, SC in next CH5 space] around. Instead of your last SC, you will SLST into the first SC of this round.


ROUND 16 = SC between this first stitch and the first DC, (CH3, skip 3DC shell, SC before the next one) twelve times, SC before the next 3DC shell] around. Instead of your last SC, you will SLST into the first SC of this round.


ROUND 17 = SLST into CH3 space, CH1, (2SC, picot, 2SC) in space, [(2SC, picot, 2SC) in next space] around. SLST into first SC.

**The chart shows "3SC, picot, 2SC" but then the picots are not centered, so I changed it to "2SC, picot, 2SC"**


Cut, fasten, weave in ends.
BLOCKING INSTRUCTIONS
  • Use a blocking mat; I prefer the blue Step2 24” mats from Walmart.com.
  • Place a light fabric or towel on the mat before beginning. This towel is essential if you are using non-absorbent blocking mats. The towel or fabric absorbs the excess starch; otherwise, the starch will flake on your project and be quite unattractive.
  • It will really help if you draw concentric circles on your fabric with a washable marker or pencil. This will allow your finished object to block correctly by following the lines. To do this, pin directly in middle of fabric/mat. Tie a marker or pencil to the pin, trace a circle by pulling the string taut. Draw more circles as needed.  Be careful that you use something that will not transfer ink onto your doily.
  • Place your finished project on top of the fabric or towel directly in the center of concentric circles.
  • Place a pin directly in the middle to keep your project centered.
  • Begin by selecting a mid-way point working from the center, and pin gently to the mat, pulling gently on your lace to stretch it out just slightly.
  • Pin opposite sides as you go around, so make sure your shaping is even.
  • Lastly, pin each of the points, pulling gently to shape, and pinning opposite sides as you go around, making sure to stay equidistant to your concentric circles.
  • Take a step back and correct any misshaped sides as needed.
  • Using a hot steam iron, gently steam your project; do NOT let the iron actually touch the project. You want to make sure the steam gets the project nice and damp.
  • Gently spray with a can of heavy starch.
  • Lean blocking mat against wall; point a fan at it to accelerate drying.

Wednesday, June 24, 2015

Pattern: "Penelope"

"Penelope"


Finished Size: 19-inches
Hook: 1.80mm
Thread: size 10


**This PDF instant download is available for purchase here:

ETSY } ----- { RAVELRY }

This pattern consists of 37 rounds.  In the PDF, I included complete written directions, an entire photo tutorial, blocking instructions, list of stitches, special instructions, and a full colored chart.


As always, if you have any questions or concerns, do not hesitate to contact me by leaving a comment here, or by messaging me through Facebook or Ravelry.

The pattern and all photos therein are copyrighted by me.  You do not have permission to reproduce any of it in any way.  However, feel free to sell finished items made from this pattern, because all finished items belong to you. Happy crocheting!

Tuesday, June 23, 2015

Photo Tutorial = No. 9 (Crochet Lace: Silk & Linen)

This pattern came out of the book "Crochet Lace: Silk & Linen" with only a chart.  If you prefer to use the chart, you can find it here.

If you would like to purchase any of the doilies I make, you can click the ETSY link on the right of this blog post.

**Disclaimer**
Please do not copy or distribute the written pattern or photos posted below.  Instead, feel free to link back to this page.


Pattern: No. 9
Book: Crochet Lace: Silk & Linen
Hook: 1.50mm
Thread: size 10, about 200 yards


I really encourage you to post your projects onto Ravelry.  Include as many notes as you can; these notes are often helpful to other users.  You can click this green button and it will take you directly to the pattern, where you can then 'queue' it or 'hook' it to start a new project.

STITCHES
CH = chain
SLST = slip stitch
SC = single crochet
DC = double crochet
CSDC = chainless starting double crochet
Picot = ch4, slst through first ch
DC2tog = DC the next two stitches together (this is a DC decrease stitch)
Cluster = (yarn over, put hook through stitch, yarn over, pull yarn through, yarn over, pull yarn through two loops) twice, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook.

NOTES

  • When it says “in next stitch,” it will never be referring to a chain stitch; it means to stitch into the next SC or DC or TC, etc.
  • Familiarize yourself with all the stitches required before beginning pattern. If there is a stitch unfamiliar to you, search youtube for a good explanatory video.
  • When beginning rounds that require a DC, I always begin with a chainless starting double crochet. You may choose to start with a CH2 or CH3, but just know that a CSDC looks more seamless.
  • An easy way to weave in your starting thread is to crochet over it as you work round 1.
  • To weave in your final thread, try using a smaller hook.

PATTERN

Magic circle (I instead did a ch10, and join with first ch to form a circle).


Round 1 = CH1, 20 SC in circle. Join to beginning SC. 


Round 2 = CSDC, DC in next stitch, CH2, (DC in each of the next two stitches, CH2) nine times. Join to the top of beginning DC.


Round 3 = CSDC, DC in next stitch, CH4, (DC in each of the next two DC, CH4) nine times. Join to the top of beginning DC.


Round 4 = CSDC, DC in same stitch, DC in next stitch, CH5, DC in the next DC, 2DC in the next DC, CH4, [2DC in the next DC, DC in the next DC, CH5, DC in the next DC, 2DC in the next DC, CH4] four times. Join to the top of beginning DC.


Round 5 = CSDC, DC in same stitch, DC in each of the next two stitches, CH, (DC, CH3, DC) in third CH of CH5 space, CH1, DC in each of the next two DC, 2DC in the next DC, CH4, [2DC in the next DC, DC in each of the next two stitches, CH1, (DC, CH3, DC) in the third CH of CH5 space, CH1, Dc in each of the next two DC, 2DC in next DC, CH4] four times. Join to the top of beginning DC.


Round 6 = CSDC, DC in same stitch, DC in each of the next three stitches, CH, cluster in next DC, CH2, cluster in CH3 space, CH2, cluster in next DC, CH, DC in each of the next three DC, 2DC in the next DC, CH4, [2DC in the next DC, DC in each of the next three stitches, CH, cluster in next DC, CH2, cluster in CH3 space, CH2, cluster in next DC, CH, DC in each of the next three DC, 2DC in the next DC, CH4] four times. Join to the top of beginning DC.


Round 7 = CSDC, DC in the same stitch, DC in each of the next three stitches, 2DC in next stitch, CH3, (DC, CH3, DC) in the second cluster stitch, CH3, skip next cluster, 2DC in the next DC, DC in each of the next three stitches, 2DC in the next stitch, CH4, [2DC in the next DC, DC in each of the next three stitches, 2DC in next stitch, CH3, (DC, CH3, DC) in the second cluster stitch, CH3, skip next cluster, 2DC in the next DC, DC in each of the next three stitches, 2DC in the next stitch, CH4] four times. Join to the top of beginning DC.


Round 8 = CSDC, DC in the same stitch, DC in each of the next five stitches, 2DC in the next stitch, CH2, cluster in the next DC, CH3, cluster in the CH3 space, CH3, cluster in the next DC, CH2, 2DC in the next DC, DC in each of the next five stitches, 2DC in the next stitch, CH3, [2DC in the next DC, DC in each of the next five stitches, 2DC in the next stitch, CH2, cluster in the next DC, CH3, cluster in the CH3 space, CH3, cluster in the next DC, CH2, 2DC in the next DC, DC in each of the next five stitches, 2DC in the next stitch, CH3] four times. Join to the top of beginning DC.


Round 9 = CSDC, DC in the same stitch, DC in each of the next seven stitches, 2DC in the next stitch, CH3, (DC, CH3, DC) in the second cluster stitch, CH3, skip next cluster, 2DC in the next DC, DC in each of the next seven stitches, 2DC in the next stitch, CH2, [2DC in the next stitch, DC in each of the next seven stitches, 2DC in the next stitch, CH3, (DC, CH3, DC) in the second cluster stitch, CH3, skip next cluster, 2DC in the next DC, DC in each of the next seven stitches, 2DC in the next stitch, CH2] four times. Join to the top of beginning DC.


Round 10 = CSDC, DC in each of the next three stitches, (DC, CH3, DC) in the next stitch, DC in each of the next five stitches, 2DC in the next stitch, CH, cluster in the next DC, CH3, cluster in the CH3 space, CH3, cluster in the next DC, CH, 2DC in the next DC, DC in each of the next five stitches, (DC, CH3, DC) in the next stitch, DC in each of the next four stitches, CH, [DC in each of the next four stitches, (DC, CH3, DC) in the next stitch, DC in each of the next five stitches, 2DC in the next stitch, CH, cluster in the next DC, CH3, cluster in the CH3 space, CH3, cluster in the next DC, CH, 2DC in the next DC, DC in each of the next five stitches, (DC, CH3, DC) in the next stitch, DC in each of the next four stitches, CH] four times. Join to the top of beginning DC.


Round 11 = CSDC, DC in each of the next three stitches, CH5, SC in CH3 space, CH5, skip two DC, DC in each of the next five stitches, 2DC in the next stitch, CH2, (DC, CH3, DC) in the second cluster stitch, CH2, skip next cluster, 2DC in the next DC, DC in each of the next five DC, CH5, SC in CH3, space, CH5, skip one DC, DC in each of the next four DC, CH, [DC in each of the next four stitches, CH5, SC in CH3 space, CH5, skip two DC, DC in each of the next five stitches, 2DC in the next stitch, CH2, (DC, CH3, DC) in the second cluster stitch, CH2, skip next cluster, 2DC in the next DC, DC in each of the next five DC, CH5, SC in CH3, space, CH5, skip one DC, DC in each of the next four DC, CH] four times. Join to the top of beginning DC.


Round 12 = CSDC, DC in each of the next two stitches, (CH5, SC in next CH5 space) twice, CH5, skip two DC, DC in each of the next four DC, 2DC in next stitch, CH, cluster in next DC, CH3, cluster in next DC, CH, 2DC in next DC, DC in each of the next four stitches, (CH5, SC in next CH5 space) twice, CH5, skip one DC, DC in each of the next three stitches, [DC in each of the next three stitches, (CH5, SC in next CH5 space) twice, CH5, skip two DC, DC in each of the next four DC, 2DC in next stitch, CH, cluster in next DC, CH3, cluster in next DC, CH, 2DC in next DC, DC in each of the next four stitches, (CH5, SC in next CH5 space) twice, CH5, skip one DC, DC in each of the next three stitches] four times. Join to the top of beginning DC.


Round 13 = CSDC, DC in the next stitch, (CH5, SC in next CH5 space) three times, CH5, skip two DC, DC in each of the next three DC, 2DC in next stitch, CH3, SC in CH3 space, CH3, skip next cluster, 2DC in next DC, DC in each of the next three stitches, (CH5, SC in next CH5 space) three times, CH5, skip one DC, DC in each of the next two DC, [DC in each of the next two stitches, (CH5, SC in next CH5 space) three times, CH5, skip two DC, DC in each of the next three DC, 2DC in next stitch, CH3, SC in CH3 space, CH3, skip next cluster, 2DC in next DC, DC in each of the next three stitches, (CH5, SC in next CH5 space) three times, CH5, skip one DC, DC in each of the next two DC] four times. Join to the top of beginning DC.


Round 14 = CSDC, [(CH5, SC in next CH5 space) four times, CH5, skip two DC, DC in each of the next two DC, 2DC in next stitch, CH, cluster in next SC, CH, 2DC in next DC, DC in each of the next two stitches, (CH5, SC in next CH5 space) four times, CH5, skip one DC, DC2tog] four times, (CH5, SC in next CH5 space) four times, CH5, skip two DC, DC in each of the next two DC, 2DC in next stitch, CH, cluster in next SC, CH, 2DC in next DC, DC in each of the next two stitches, (CH5, SC in next CH5 space) four times, CH5, skip one DC, DC in the next stitch. Join to the top of beginning DC.


Round 15 = SLST up to the middle of the next CH5, CH1, SC in same spot. [(CH6, SC in next space) four times, CH6, skip two DC, DC in the next stitch, 2DC in the next stitch, CH2, skip cluster stitch, 2DC in the next DC, DC inthe next stitch, (CH6, SC in the next space) six times] five times.  For the very last CH6, instead do a CH3, and then DC into the beginning SC.  This places your hook in the correct spot to start the next round.


Round 16 = CH1, SC in same spot. [(CH6, SC in the next space) five times, CH6, skip two DC, DC in the next stitch, 2DC in the CH2 space, DC in the next stitch, (CH6, SC in the next space) six times] five times. For the very last CH6, instead do a CH3, and then DC into the beginning SC.


Round 17 = CH1, SC in same spot. [(CH6, SC in the next space) six times, CH6, skip one DC, DC2tog, (CH6, SC in the next space) six times] five times. For the very last CH6, instead do a CH3, and then DC into the beginning SC.


Round 18 = CH1, SC in same spot. [CH7, SC in the next space] around.  For the very last CH7, instead do a CH4, and then DC into the beginning SC. 


Round 19 = Repeat round 18.


Round 20 = Repeat round 18 again.


Round 21 = CH1, SC in same spot. [CH, (2DC, CH, picot, CH, 2DC) in next stitch, CH, SC in next CH 7 space] around. For the very last SC, instead SLST into the beginning SC. 


Cut, fasten, weave in ends.
BLOCKING INSTRUCTIONS
  • Use a blocking mat; I prefer the blue Step2 24” mats from Walmart.com.
  • Place a light fabric or towel on the mat before beginning. This towel is essential if you are using non-absorbent blocking mats. The towel or fabric absorbs the excess starch; otherwise, the starch will flake on your project and be quite unattractive.
  • It will really help if you draw concentric circles on your fabric with a washable marker or pencil. This will allow your finished object to block correctly by following the lines. To do this, pin directly in middle of fabric/mat. Tie a marker or pencil to the pin, trace a circle by pulling the string taut. Draw more circles as needed.  Be careful that you use something that will not transfer ink onto your doily.
  • Place your finished project on top of the fabric or towel directly in the center of concentric circles.
  • Place a pin directly in the middle to keep your project centered.
  • Begin by selecting a mid-way point working from the center, and pin gently to the mat, pulling gently on your lace to stretch it out just slightly.
  • Pin opposite sides as you go around, so make sure your shaping is even.
  • Lastly, pin each of the points, pulling gently to shape, and pinning opposite sides as you go around, making sure to stay equidistant to your concentric circles.
  • Take a step back and correct any misshaped sides as needed.
  • Using a hot steam iron, gently steam your project; do NOT let the iron actually touch the project. You want to make sure the steam gets the project nice and damp.
  • Gently spray with a can of heavy starch.
  • Lean blocking mat against wall; point a fan at it to accelerate drying.

Saturday, June 20, 2015

New Pattern: "Eisley"

"Eisley"


Finished Size: 12-inches
Hook: 1.50mm
Thread: size 10
Color: Golden Yellow

**This PDF instant download is available for purchase here:

{ ETSY } ----- { RAVELRY }

This pattern consists of 25 rounds and works up very quickly.  In the PDF, I included complete written directions, an entire photo tutorial, blocking instructions, list of stitches, and special instructions.


If you use Knit Picks Curio thread, it will come out a little smaller (around 11-inches) because curio is slightly thinner than other size 10 threads.  This yellow version was done with Aunt Lydia's classic crochet thread, but I did do a KP Curio version in sagebrush.


As always, if you have any questions or concerns, do not hesitate to contact me by leaving a comment here, or by messaging me through Facebook or Ravelry.

The pattern and all photos therein are copyrighted by me.  You do not have permission to reproduce any of it in any way.  However, feel free to sell finished items made from this pattern, because all finished items belong to you. Happy crocheting!