Tuesday, September 1, 2015

Photo Tutorial = "Pearl Fisher"

Today's photo tutorial is of "Pearl Fisher." 

Pattern on Ravelry } -- { Chart }



I really encourage you to post your projects onto Ravelry.  Include as many notes as you can; these notes are often helpful to other users.  You can click this green button and it will take you directly to the pattern, where you can then 'queue' it or 'hook' it to start a new project.

**You can use any size thread and hook to achieve a bigger or smaller finished object.**

Hook: 1.50mm
Thread: size 10
Finished size: 15-inches

STITCHES
  • CH = chain
  • SLST = slip stitch
  • SC = single crochet
  • DC = double crochet
  • TC or TR = triple crochet
  • CSDC = chainless starting double crochet
  • Picot = ch4, slst through first ch
  • Cluster = (y.o., put hook in space, y.o., pull through, y.o., pull through two loops on hook) three times, y.o., pull through all loops on hook.
  • 4DC-cluster = (y.o., put hook in same space, y.o., pull through, y.o., pull through two loops on hook) twice, and then in next space do the same thing in " ( ) ", y.o., pull through all loops on hook.
  • Shell = 2DC, CH3, 2DC
  • QTR = y.o. FIVE times, put hook in space, y.o., pull through, (y.o., pull through two loops on hook) repeatedly until the stitch is complete. 
  • 2TC-cluster = [y.o. twice, put hook in space, y.o., pull through, (y.o., pull through two loops on hook) twice] twice, y.o., pull through all loops on hook.
  • 2TCtog = Crochet a "2TC-cluster" that connects the same space and the next space together by putting the first TC in the same space, and the second TC in the next space. Follow instructions for "2TC-cluster" in order for the TCs to be connected.
  • 4TCtog = Same as "2TCtog" but instead of one TC in each space, you will have 2TCs in each space, making sure all four of them are connected as one stitch at the top.

NOTES
  • When it says “in next stitch,” it will never be referring to a chain stitch; it means to stitch into the next SC or DC or TC, etc.
  • Familiarize yourself with all the stitches required before beginning pattern. If there is a stitch unfamiliar to you, search youtube for a good explanatory video.
  • When beginning rounds that require a DC, I always begin with a chainless starting double crochet. You may choose to start with a CH2 or CH3, but just know that a CSDC looks more seamless. 
  • When beginning rounds that require a TC, I do a CH1 and then a CSDC, as this gives the height of a TC and looks more seamless than doing a simple CH4.  But you can do a CH4 if you prefer.
  • An easy way to weave in your starting thread is to crochet over it as you work round 1.
  • To weave in your final thread, try using a smaller hook.

PATTERN

CH5. Join with a SLST to form a circle.


ROUND 1 = CH1, CSDC, CH2. (TC, CH2) eleven times in the circle. [12 TCs and 12 CH spaces]


ROUND 2 = SLST into the first space, CSDC, (y.o., put hook in space, y.o., pull through, y.o., pull through two loops on hook) twice, y.o., pull through all loops on hook, CH2. [Cluster in next space, CH2] around. Join with a SLST into the top of beginning stitch.


ROUND 3 = SLST into space. CSDC, Cluster (but do the first DC in the same space as first stitch, and the other two DCs in the next space) together, CH5. [4DC-cluster, CH5] around. However, for your very last CH5, instead do CH2, and then DC into the top of first stitch of round.


ROUND 4 = CSDC, CH3, 2DC in same space (around the last DC of previous round), CH1, [shell in next space, CH1] around, DC in CH2 space. Join with a SLST to the top of beginning stitch.


ROUND 5 = CSDC, (2DC, CH5, 2DC) in space, DC in next stitch, CH, SC in CH1 space, CH, [skip one stitch, DC in the next stitch, (2DC, CH5, 2DC) in space, DC in next stitch, CH, SC in CH1 space, CH] around. Join with a SLST to top of beginning stitch.

*The CH5s are supposed to be CH5-picots, but I misread the chart and did not SLST to form the picots by accident.  You may do this instead.*


Cut and fasten. Weave in ends. Motif #1 is finished.  Create a total of seven motifs, but you will "join as you go" using this method:

ASSEMBLY = As you create each motif, you will join the picots or CH5s with the adjoining motifs (only two points of connection between adjoining motifs). When you come to a section that is ready to join while crocheting the outer round, instead of doing a CH5, you will instead do CH2, then slip stitch around the CH5 of adjoining motif, and then CH2 again, and follow the rest of the pattern for that round until you reach the next point where you need to join. You may join in any pattern you want, but the #s below correspond to the joining order given in the chart.


Join new thread with a SLST the 2nd exposed point from the right. Look at the picture below. Starting from the bottom (of the picture), read up until you find the first SC. This is where you will join your new thread. 

BORDER ROUND 1 = [CH11, SC in the next point, CH11, DC in next point, CH11, QTR in next point, CH11, QTR in next point (this is on the next motif), CH11, DC in next point, CH11, SC in next point] around. However, for your very last CH11, you will do a CH9, and then DC into the the beginning SC.


BORDER ROUND 2 = CSDC, CH3, skip the first SC and CH, DC into the next CH, (CH3, skip three CHs, DC in next CH) twice, [CH3, skip CH, skip stitch, skip CH, DC in next CH, (CH3, skip three CHs, DC in next CH) twice] around. Join with a SLST to the top of beginning stitch.


BORDER ROUND 3 = SLST into space, (CH1, CSDC, TC) in space, CH4, [2TC-cluster in next space, CH4] around. For your very last CH4, instead do a CH2, and then DC into the top of beginning stitch.


BORDER ROUND 4 = CH1, CSDC, y.o. twice, put hook in same space, y.o., pull through, (y.o., pull through two loops on hook) twice, y.o. twice, put hook in next space, y.o., pull through, (y.o., pull through two loops on hook) twice, y.o. twice, put hook in same space, y.o., pull through, (y.o., pull through two loops on hook) twice, y.o., pull through all loops on hook, CH4, 2TCtog, CH4, [4TCtog, CH4, 2TCtog, CH4] around. However, instead of your very last CH4, do CH2 and then DC into the top of very first stitch of round.


BORDER ROUND 5 = CH1, CSDC, TC round last DC of last round, CH1, 2TC in next space, CH5, [2TC in next space, CH1, 2TC in next space, CH5] around. Join with a SLST to beginning stitch.


BORDER ROUND 6 = SLST to CH1 space, CH1, [SC in CH1 space, (4TC, picot, 4TC) in CH5 space] around. Join with a SLST to begining SC.


Cut, fasten, weave in ends.
BLOCKING INSTRUCTIONS
  • Use a blocking mat; I prefer the blue Step2 24” mats from Walmart.com.
  • Place a light fabric or towel on the mat before beginning. This towel is essential if you are using non-absorbent blocking mats. The towel or fabric absorbs the excess starch; otherwise, the starch will flake on your project and be quite unattractive.
  • It will really help if you draw concentric circles on your fabric with a washable marker or pencil. This will allow your finished object to block correctly by following the lines. To do this, pin directly in middle of fabric/mat. Tie a marker or pencil to the pin, trace a circle by pulling the string taut. Draw more circles as needed.  Be careful that you use something that will not transfer ink onto your doily.
  • Place your finished project on top of the fabric or towel directly in the center of concentric circles.
  • Place a pin directly in the middle to keep your project centered.
  • Begin by selecting a mid-way point working from the center, and pin gently to the mat, pulling gently on your lace to stretch it out just slightly.
  • Pin opposite sides as you go around, so make sure your shaping is even.
  • Lastly, pin each of the points, pulling gently to shape, and pinning opposite sides as you go around, making sure to stay equidistant to your concentric circles.
  • Take a step back and correct any misshaped sides as needed.
  • Using a hot steam iron, gently steam your project; do NOT let the iron actually touch the project. You want to make sure the steam gets the project nice and damp.
  • Gently spray with a can of heavy starch.
  • Lean blocking mat against wall; point a fan at it to accelerate drying.

**All pictures are copyrighted by me and 
may not be copied or reproduced without my permission.**

Wednesday, August 26, 2015

Photo Tutorial = (No Name)

Today's free photo-tutorial and written pattern is a 16-round beautiful doily.  Even though I searched and searched, I could not figure out the original source of this pattern.  If you figure it out, please let me know, so I can add it to Ravelry. 

With this photo-tutorial I've made, I will include the written pattern (which I have transcribed from the chart) between each of the pictures, like I always do. If you find any errors, please comment! 

Chart }


**You can use any size thread and hook to achieve a bigger or smaller finished object.**

Hook: 1.50mm
Thread: size 10
Yardage: about 150 yards
Finished size: 8-inches

STITCHES
CH = chain
SLST = slip stitch
SC = single crochet
DC = double crochet
CSDC = chainless starting double crochet
Picot = ch3, slst through first ch
DC2tog = skip 1 stitch, y.o., put hook in next stitch, y.o., bring through, y.o., bring through 2 loops on hook, y.o., skip six stitches, put hook in next stitch, y.o., bring through, y.o., bring through 2 loops on hook, y.o., bring through all loops on hook.
DC3tog = (y.o., put hook in next stitch, y.o., bring through, y.o., bring through 2 loops on hook) three times, y.o., bring through all loops on hook.

NOTES
  • When it says “in next stitch,” it will never be referring to a chain stitch; it means to stitch into the next SC or DC or TC, etc.
  • Familiarize yourself with all the stitches required before beginning pattern. If there is a stitch unfamiliar to you, search youtube for a good explanatory video.
  • When beginning rounds that require a DC, I always begin with a chainless starting double crochet. You may choose to start with a CH2 or CH3, but just know that a CSDC looks more seamless.
  • An easy way to weave in your starting thread is to crochet over it as you work round 1.
  • To weave in your final thread, try using a smaller hook.
PATTERN

CH8. Join with a SLST to form a circle.


ROUND 1 = CH1, 12 SC into the circle. Join with a SLST to beginning stitch.


ROUND 2 = CSDC, DC in same stitch, (2DC in next stitch) around. Join with a SLST to beginning stitch.


ROUND 3 = CSDC, DC in same stitch, DC in next stitch, (2DC in next stitch, DC in next stitch) around. Join with with a SLST to beginning stitch.


ROUND 4 = CSDC, 2DC in next stitch, (DC in next stitch, 2DC in next stitch) around. Join with a SLST to beginning stitch.


ROUND 5 = CH1, SC in same stitch, (SC in next stitch) around. Join with a SLST to beginning stitch.


ROUND 6 = CH1, SC in same stitch, [CH5, skip three stitches, SC in next stitch, (CH5, skip two stitches, SC in next stitch) twice] five times, CH2, DC into the beginning SC.  This places your hook in the correct spot to begin the next round.


ROUND 7 = CH1, SC around last DC made. [(3DC, CH15, 3DC) in next CH5 space, SC in next space] around. However, for your last SC, instead SLST into the beginning SC.


ROUND 8 = CH1, SC in same stitch, [(13DC, CH3, 13DC) in CH15 space, SC in next SC] around. However, for your last SC, instead SLST into the beginning SC.


ROUND 9 = SLST up to the tenth DC, CH1, SC in same stitch, [CH5, (SC, CH7, SC) in CH3 space, CH5, skip three DC, SC in next stitch, CH11, SC in tenth DC of next petal] around. However, for your last SC, instead SLST into the beginning SC.


ROUND 10 = SLST to the middle of the CH5 space, CH1, SC in same spot. [11DC in CH7 space, SC in CH5 space, 13DC in CH11 space, SC in CH5 space] around. However, for your last SC, instead SLST into the beginning SC.


ROUND 11 = CSDC, CH1, (DC, CH1) in the next nine DC, DC in next DC, skip the next three DC, SC in the next seven stitches, [(DC, CH1) in the next ten DC, DC in next DC, skip the next three DC, SC in the next seven stitches] around. Join with a SLST to the top of beginning stitch.


ROUND 12 = CSDC, (2DC in CH1 space, DC in next stitch) ten times, skip three SC, SC in the next stitch, [(DC in the next DC, 2DC in the CH1 space) ten times, DC in the next DC, skip three SC, SC in the next stitch] around. Join with a SLST to the top of beginning stitch.


ROUND 13 = CH1, SC in same stitch, SC in every stitch around. Join with a SLST to beginning SC.


ROUND 14 = SLST into the next three stitches, CSDC, [(CH2, skip one stitch, DC in next stitch) eleven times, CH2, DC2tog (see stitches section at the top of this post for this important stitch)] around. However, at the end of the round, you will not perform a DC2tog; instead, skip one stitch, y.o., put hook in next stitch, y.o., pull through, y.o., pull through two loops, and then SLST into the top of the beginning stitch--this creates what looks like a DC2tog combining your first and last stitch of this round and places your hook in the correct spot to start the next round.

*The way I began and finished this round is not how it is done on the chart.


ROUND 15 = CSDC, (DC in next stitch, 2DC in CH2 space) ten times, DC3tog, [2DC in CH2 space, [(DC in next stitch, 2DC in CH2 space) nine times, DC3tog] around. However, at the end of the round, you will not perform a DC3tog; instead, y.o., put hook in next stitch, y.o., pull through, y.o., pull through two loops, and then SLST into the top of beginning stitch.


ROUND 16 = CH1, SC in same stitch, skip one stitch (this one stitch in this entire round is actually part of your first  DC3tog), [picot, SC in each of the next three stitches] around. Join with a SLST to beginning SC.


Cut, fasten, weave in ends.
BLOCKING INSTRUCTIONS
  • Use a blocking mat; I prefer the blue Step2 24” mats from Walmart.com.
  • Place a light fabric or towel on the mat before beginning. This towel is essential if you are using non-absorbent blocking mats. The towel or fabric absorbs the excess starch; otherwise, the starch will flake on your project and be quite unattractive.
  • It will really help if you draw concentric circles on your fabric with a washable marker or pencil. This will allow your finished object to block correctly by following the lines. To do this, pin directly in middle of fabric/mat. Tie a marker or pencil to the pin, trace a circle by pulling the string taut. Draw more circles as needed.  Be careful that you use something that will not transfer ink onto your doily.
  • Place your finished project on top of the fabric or towel directly in the center of concentric circles.
  • Place a pin directly in the middle to keep your project centered.
  • Begin by selecting a mid-way point working from the center, and pin gently to the mat, pulling gently on your lace to stretch it out just slightly.
  • Pin opposite sides as you go around, so make sure your shaping is even.
  • Lastly, pin each of the points, pulling gently to shape, and pinning opposite sides as you go around, making sure to stay equidistant to your concentric circles.
  • Take a step back and correct any misshaped sides as needed.
  • Using a hot steam iron, gently steam your project; do NOT let the iron actually touch the project. You want to make sure the steam gets the project nice and damp.
  • Gently spray with a can of heavy starch.
  • Lean blocking mat against wall; point a fan at it to accelerate drying.

As always, these tutorials are provided free for you. Please consider checking out my paid patterns (click on "Patterns"at the top of this page) and purchasing if any of them interest you.  My Etsy shop (link on the right of this page) has several e-books that allow you to purchase more than one at a time at a discounted rate.


**All pictures are copyrighted by me and 
may not be copied or reproduced without my permission.**

Thursday, August 20, 2015

New Pattern: "Philippa"

I never really thought I would ever get into pattern designing.  At first, I thought the process was tedious, long, and only worth it if you could find some form of enjoyment out of it.  Well, here I am, a few years later, eating my words.  This is my ninth published pattern.  I saw a doily the other day that was Armenian-lace, and it really inspired me.

When I sought to design this pattern, I couldn't settle on the right color.  I really wanted to do it in red, but red tends to be the worst color to photograph, so instead, I settled on ecru/natural.  This design practically wrote itself; it came together in less than 24-hours.

"Philippa"

Finished Size: 10-inches
Hook: 1.50mm
Thread: size 10
Yardage: 175-200 yards


**This PDF instant download is available for purchase here:

ETSY } ----- { RAVELRY }

This pattern consists of 24 rounds.  In the PDF, I included complete written directions, blocking instructions, list of stitches, and special instructions.



As always, if you have any questions or concerns, do not hesitate to contact me by leaving a comment here, or by messaging me through Facebook or Ravelry.

The pattern and all photos therein are copyrighted by me.  You do not have permission to reproduce any of it in any way.  However, feel free to sell finished items made from this pattern, because all finished items belong to you. Happy crocheting!

Friday, August 14, 2015

Pattern: "Willa"

"Willa"

Finished Size: 11-inches
Hook: 1.25mm
Thread: size 10
Yardage: 200-250 yards


**This PDF instant download is available for purchase here:

ETSY } ----- { RAVELRY }

This pattern consists of 27 rounds.  In the PDF, I included complete written directions, blocking instructions, list of stitches, and special instructions.

As always, if you have any questions or concerns, do not hesitate to contact me by leaving a comment here, or by messaging me through Facebook or Ravelry.

The pattern and all photos therein are copyrighted by me.  You do not have permission to reproduce any of it in any way.  However, feel free to sell finished items made from this pattern, because all finished items belong to you. Happy crocheting!


Thursday, August 13, 2015

Pattern: Ordered Diamond Doily

Ordered Diamond Doily



I really encourage you to post your projects onto Ravelry.  Include as many notes as you can; these notes are often helpful to other users.  You can click this green button and it will take you directly to the pattern, where you can then 'queue' it or 'hook' it to start a new project.

Finished Size: 14-inches
Hook: 1.25mm
Thread: size 10
Yardage: about 300 yards

**This PDF instant download is available for purchase here:

ETSY } -- { RAVELRY }

This pattern consists of 34 rounds.  In the PDF, I included complete written directions, an entire photo tutorial, blocking instructions, list of stitches, and special instructions.



As always, if you have any questions or concerns, do not hesitate to contact me by leaving a comment here, or by messaging me through Facebook or Ravelry.

The pattern and all photos therein are copyrighted by me.  You do not have permission to reproduce any of it in any way.  However, feel free to sell finished items made from this pattern, because all finished items belong to you. Happy crocheting!